Obras y insurrección
May 24, 2015
“Are we locked out, or is the art locked in?” I ask Lillian. “It depends which side of the glass you are
standing on. For now, we are not getting inside,” she tells me. We came to Galeria Francisco Oller, on
the UPR Rio Piedras campus, to see Crescendo, an art installation by Elizam Escobar. With the doors
locked the only thing we can see is a pile of brochures inside the glass door, and a blurry view of
some of the images on the walls. The far end of the gallery is dominated by two larger than life size
photographs. The first shows Escobar when he was a much younger man, standing next to a small boy.
The other photo shows an older Escobar standing next to a man and an even older woman.
Not wanting our trip to be wasted effort, we visited Liberia Tertulia, where we purchased the new book by Nelson A. Denis, War Against All Puerto Ricans: Revolution and Terror in America's Colony. We learned that Denis would speak about his book at UPR the following day, and made plans to attend that discussion.
"The United States has a long and complex relationship with Puerto Rico that changes dramatically depending on who is telling the tale. Is America a friendly benefactor who brought economic development to an agricultural island? Or is the U.S. an oppressive ruler who capitalized on the island's fertile and inexpensive land, and cheap labor, to advance U.S. economic interests at the expense of Puerto Ricans, many of whom wanted independence after the oppressive rule of Spain." This quote comes from Betsy Kaplan of WNPR news radio in Hartford, CT. She recently interviewed Denis about the book and his investigations into the life of Pedro Albizu Campos, leader of the Nationalist Party of Puerto Rico, who devoted his entire life to seeking independence.
During the subsequent discussion by Denis we learned that he considers his book a work in
progress, telling one part of a complex and evolving story that exposes a suppressed, often hidden
history of the island's efforts to resist domination, and ongoing U.S. repression. He said the next step
for his book is translation into Spanish. The discussion became heated when a few students and one
historian challenged Denis on some specific facts. He was generous in his response, telling them that he
is author of a narrative and worked to be as accurate as possible, while reminding them that facts can
always be corrected. “What is important,” he says, “is the message to our youth, which they must
internalize. There are many opinions, but we should learn to speak as one voice if we are to be heard.”
Denis indicated the core of this book is a human appeal to an incredible story, not unlike the story told
by Dee Brown in his 1970 book, Bury My Heart at Wounded Knee, an account of injustice and the
betrayal of native American Indians by the U.S. government. Denis said Brown's book represents a
paradigm shift in people's perception of the plight of the American Indian and hoped that his own book
might provide the impetus for a similar shift in thinking – for Puerto Ricans about themselves and
popular opinion about the island and its people.
After the discussion, we returned to the Oller gallery to view the art installation by Elizam Escobar and
this time we were able to make a close and careful observation. Unlike other exhibitions of Escobar's
work that we have seen, this presents a detailed auto-biographical record of the lenghty time he was in prison in
the U.S., incarcerated as member of the Movimiento Clandestino Puertorriqueno, who were fighting for
independence.
The most striking and absorbing work in this installation is a series of 19 photographs, one for each of his years in U.S. federal prison, that show Escobar with his son in the visiting rooms of the various prisions where he was being held. In two instances his son was not able to visit, so Escobar has collaged two individual photos together. These may the most affective of all.
We were joined on our tour by Nelson Denis and he made a pointed and astute observation of this
group of photographs. “Look at Escobar's eyes,” he instructed us, “Notice how world-weary he appears.
Compare that to the life in the eyes of his son.” As you look at these photos and their history of time's
passage, you watch the son grow from a boy to a man. At the end, in 1999, he is nearly the same age as
Escobar at the beginning in of his incarceration in 1981. As Denis pointed out, a certain weariness seems to have crept into
the son's eyes as well, as his knowledge of the world and his awareness of his place in it grows along
with him.
Crescendo represents a gradual but steady increase in volume or intensity, usually in sound and often culminating in an especially loud noise or crash. Escobar considers his installation a visible record of the passage of time, and it is easy to imagine those 19 years building in intensity.
According to the account by Denis in his book War Against All Puerto Ricans, the abuse of the island
of Puerto Rico started early, in 1493 under Spanish rule, followed in 1898 by the U.S. government's
annexation of the island after the Spanish-American war. The leader of the Nationalist Party and his supporters felt
that crescendo which climaxed in the last days of October, 1950 when they led an armed insurrection
against the U.S. government. As Denis says, this story is still being written.
The Jayuya Revolt or El Grito de Jayuya, was a Nationalist insurrection that took place on October 30, 1950
Elizam Escobar experienced a crescendo which may have started even before his arrest in 1981, but
continued its increase in intensity until he was released from prison and he returned to the island.
One can read the culmination in his eyes, the eyes of his son, and the eyes of his mother in the large
photograph that dominates the wall at the far end of the gallery, showing them together September 10,
1999, the day of his release.
(left) FBI document from book by Nelson A. Denis (right) Albizu Campos, painting by Elizam Escobar
Founded by the Dutch in 1614, Albany, NY is one of the oldest cities in the US. If Ned Foss and I had met back then, we would have bonded over something other than automobiles, as the first motor car, a steam powered vehicle was not invented until 1627. As it was, we met in Albany's Mansion neighborhood, named not for large elegant houses, but rather for the Governor's Mansion which sits at the top of a hill overlooking the Hudson River and the Pastures, Albany's first settlement along the Hudson.
Ned was living on Wilbur St and driving a fully restored turquoise and white 1963 Dodge Town and Country panel truck. I was living at 75 Grand St. and driving a vintage, nine window, two passenger, unrestored, bright yellow 1968 Ford Econoline van. Sharing our interest, I showed Ned photos of a red 800 cc 1961 Morris Mini Minor, as well as a 1200 cc, dual carburator, off yellow 1963 Austin Mini Cooper S that had been my daily transportation in Madison, WI prior to moving to Albany. That move in 1976 meant I had to trade the Mini Cooper for the maxi-sized Econoline in order to haul all my possessions.
Ned proceeded to enumerate a long list of vintage and classic cars he had owned prior to his move to Albany. Our bond established, I soon purchased, and in one case inherited, a series of second-hand vechicles from Ned, including two Peugeot station wagons, a 1982 504 diesel, and later a gas powered 1990 405. The diesel came with a second, backup parts car, the inheritance. A few years later, I bought from Ned what would be the first of many Volvo wagons. The subsequent Volvos were purchased from a local shop that specialized in Volvo repairs; suffice to say over those years, repairs were often and numerous. Twelve years ago, just before leaving for our current home here in Santa Olaya, PR, I sold both Volvos, a black 1995 850 wagon, and a four door dark green, 240 GL sedan which had become our daughter Lydia's primary transport and which was the last car we owned while in Albany.
Intrepid, I was not so sure about, and interpreter would be a stretch. I can manage the basics: ordering food in restaurants or buying supplies in countryside bodegas where little or no English is spoken. Regardless, I was up for the challenge. First task was getting Ned a place to stay and shortly via the internet, he found a small boutique hotel in the Condado neighborhood of San Juan. Conveniently located, walking distance to the ocean front, with many restaurants and the best supermarket housing a fully-stocked wine department (otherwise difficult to find around here), the hotel was in an area that we know well, as we have friends there. Before Ned confirmed his reservation, I checked out the facilities, told him that he had made a good choice and advised him on which room best suited his needs.
By mid-November of last year Ned had his admission papers for the car show, the hotel booked, and airline tickets in hand. Then began a series of emails wherein we made detailed plans for his week on the island, starting with an article from Food&Wine.com titled, "How to Spend a Perfect Time in San Juan eating & drinking" which set the tone for much that would follow. Regarding the first day/night of the car show and my suggestion that we try to hit the beach then go to a cocktail party and dinner, Ned replied, "For sure, the cocktail party. Venue looks great especially if some of the cars featured in the show are there. The dinner is unlikely to be interesting no matter where it is held: endless speeches, awards, etc. Guaynabo's Museum of Transportation holds far more appeal for me than does surfing and other activities they highlight in their brochure."
(From NF mobile}.
I followed up with a lengthy note giving Ned details about various options:
"Wed: I pick you up and we tour San Juan area starting with Pinones, just east of the airport. A funky beach zone and home to the most authentic and delicious Puertoriccan food. We'll get lunch cooked over an open fire: pork, banana fritters, rice, black beans, and beer. Then we work our way west along the coast: Carolina, Isla Verde, Ocean Park, Condado (where you're staying) tour Old San Juan, and then back east, but a bit more south: Miramar, Santurce (the arts district) Obrero (another art district) then circle back to your hotel. That will take us the better part of the day. We can have dinner in your neighborhood and before its too late, I head home.
Thurs: Day One of show. They'll have transport for you to Guaynabo which is half way between my house and San Juan, so I can easily meet you at the show grounds. I think I should remain a free-agent. You sign on as volunteer. I'll be my reporter self, take photos, etc. (what I do best) while you get to know the people running the show (what you do best). At end of day we go to that cocktail event, then you Uber back to your hotel, and I drive home.
Friday: Another show day. Same plan as above. End of day, I drive you home, we catch dinner. If it's too late, I sleep on your couch.
Sat: From now on, it depends on what you want to do. You use same routine to get to Guaynabo, where I meet you. If you've had too much show, we leave and go exploring. Visit that Transportation museum, look around town of Guaynabo, etc. I drive you to hotel, then take myself home, if it's not too late.
Sun - Tues: I show you around San Juan and nearby areas. San Juan is rich in experiences, with plenty to see and do, plus you need to meet a few of our friends. Later, we will take a short drive south to Caguas, an interesting town which I know well. We should go mid-morning. On our return, we'll take country roads, winding and beautiful and stop here in Santa Olaya where you'll see how we live. Then back to San Juan. If I'm too wobbly to drive home, I sleep on your couch.
Wed: Before noon, we grab lunch and get to SJU airport in plenty of time for your 3:30 pm flight home.
That's it. I think the basics are strong and you'll enjoy exploring life here in Paradise, as they call it."
(Jan, via email)
Meanwhile, in keeping with the car theme, I was working with David Brickman, fellow artist living in Albany, and together we wrote a review of Japanese director Ryusuke Hamaguchi’s film "Drive My Car" based on Haruki Murakami’s short story of the same name. Brickman covered the film and I wrote about Murakami's story.
Link to the article -- https://nippertown.com/2022/02/06/let-me-drive-my-car-please
I emailed a copy of our review to Ned and got this note back from him:
On Mon, Feb 7, 2022, 11:21 AM Ned Foss wrote:
Great piece!
to which I replied:
On Mon, Feb 7, 2022 3:53 PM Jan Galligan wrote:
Thanks Ned.
I thought of you when writing that.
Early in April Ned sent a note confirming his arrival time at SJU and his plans for the visit.
I replied:
"I've got you inked in for Wed 4/20 with 4:50pm arrival. I'll be there, in the peripheral parking area. Text me when you land and call me when you have your bags. I'll meet you at Delta arrivals. Then we head into San Juan, get you settled at Placid Suites, after which we go to a nearby restaurant for dinner.
(Jan, via email)
Well, you know what they say about the best laid plans. The rest as they say, is history:
While living on Wilbur St. my 1963 Dodge Town and Country Panel Truck was all turquoise before it gained a rebuilt engine and white paint during the course of restoration. (noted and corrected)
What was that wonderful hotel we walked through in Old San Juan? (El Convento)
What was the name of that area where we walked around newly-restored buildings and listened to loud music in the Park? (Ocean Park east)
The train and the station with Antonio Muntadas' pictures of Jack Delano's photographs was a great way to experience a way out of the city and into the suburbs without being on a commuter highway. (San Juan to Bayamon elevated commuter train. This article references Muntadas' installation at Roosevelt station -- http://janguarte.posthaven.com/fair-use-or-fair-game-art-in-the-internet-age )
What was the name of that lovely bakery where we had our final breakfast? (Kasalta, in Ocean Park)
And that cool place on the mountaintop where we went with Lillian, Peter and Betty? (Hacienda Calichi in Naranjito)
And that outstanding restaurant in town? (La Princesa on paseo La Princesa in Old San Juan)
While at the Rhinebeck car show, I found a DeSoto collector and learned that the DeSoto we fell in love with is fully Dodge, but was sold in Latin America and other parts of the world branded as De Soto. That type of thing happened often with Mopars: Low-end Chryslers were sold in Norway branded as Plymouths, etc.
You can read that full story here ... BEEP BEEP YOUR ASS.
Last night @ 11:11 pm while watching Burning (Hangul: 버닝; RR: Beoning) the 2018 South Korean psychological drama mystery film directed, produced and co-written by Lee Chang-dong, I was struck by a scene with a gigantic blowup of Roy Lichtenstein's art on the wall of the restaurant (screenshot below) ...
This morning @ 5:55 am I received this email from ArtNet auctions (screenshot below) ...
photo: Jan Galligan (left) and Lillian Mulero (right) at Ocean Park Beach, San Juan, PR, 6/8/18
Nine months post hurricane Maria, sixth months after our return following a much needed exile to the mainland, we find signs of the quasi-idyll that characterized our life on the island pre-storm. Many scars and disruptions abound, some parts of the island suffered much worse than our sheltered valley. Lots of work remains and most of us are now preparing for this year's impending hurricane season. Still, it's nice -- and it's helpful -- to get out on an especially fine day.
6:18 AM Thursday, September 21, 2017, Santa Olaya, Bayamon, PR, photo by Jan Galligan
The morning after hurricane Maria had passed over the island and our house in Santa Olaya, a small barrio located in the countryside south of Bayamon, we opened the door for the first time thinking to walk around the property and inspect the damage. We were met with this spectacular view, and we marveled at how that cloud, backlit by the rising sun -- looked exactly like the island of Puerto Rico. Was this a harbinger, or an omen? Only time could tell...
posted by Jan Galligan & Lillian Mulero
temporarily in New Orleans, LA
Sunday, November 26, 2017
Next time, I'll try Uber.
THE NEW YORK TIMES, By Matt Flegenheimer
MAY 31, 2017
The state of our union was … covfefe.
The trouble began, as it so often does, on Twitter, in the early minutes of Wednesday morning. Mr. Trump had something to say. Kind of.
“Despite the constant negative press covfefe,” the Twitter post began, at 12:06 a.m., from @realDonaldTrump, the irrepressible internal monologue of his presidency.
And that was that.
DATELINE: PUERTO RICO
Prepared for the eclipse with: Clestron 2X power Sun and Eclipse Observing Kit, notepad and pen, Barrilito.
As we say on the island, "The coast is almost always clear."
The moment of maximum coverage of moon over the sun.
"Watch out for cars passing too closely to viewing station ..."
(Note: t-shirt says: "BUMMER")
(Note: t-shirt says: "HUSTLE")