by Jan Galligan & Ned Foss
April 20 - 27, 2022
Founded by the Dutch in 1614, Albany, NY is one of the oldest cities in the US. If Ned Foss and I had met back then, we would have bonded over something other than automobiles, as the first motor car, a steam powered vehicle was not invented until 1627. As it was, we met in Albany's Mansion neighborhood, named not for large elegant houses, but rather for the Governor's Mansion which sits at the top of a hill overlooking the Hudson River and the Pastures, Albany's first settlement along the Hudson.
Ned was living on Wilbur St and driving a fully restored turquoise and white 1963 Dodge Town and Country panel truck. I was living at 75 Grand St. and driving a vintage, nine window, two passenger, unrestored, bright yellow 1968 Ford Econoline van. Sharing our interest, I showed Ned photos of a red 800 cc 1961 Morris Mini Minor, as well as a 1200 cc, dual carburator, off yellow 1963 Austin Mini Cooper S that had been my daily transportation in Madison, WI prior to moving to Albany. That move in 1976 meant I had to trade the Mini Cooper for the maxi-sized Econoline in order to haul all my possessions.
Ned proceeded to enumerate a long list of vintage and classic cars he had owned prior to his move to Albany. Our bond established, I soon purchased, and in one case inherited, a series of second-hand vechicles from Ned, including two Peugeot station wagons, a 1982 504 diesel, and later a gas powered 1990 405. The diesel came with a second, backup parts car, the inheritance. A few years later, I bought from Ned what would be the first of many Volvo wagons. The subsequent Volvos were purchased from a local shop that specialized in Volvo repairs; suffice to say over those years, repairs were often and numerous. Twelve years ago, just before leaving for our current home here in Santa Olaya, PR, I sold both Volvos, a black 1995 850 wagon, and a four door dark green, 240 GL sedan which had become our daughter Lydia's primary transport and which was the last car we owned while in Albany.
Intrepid, I was not so sure about, and interpreter would be a stretch. I can manage the basics: ordering food in restaurants or buying supplies in countryside bodegas where little or no English is spoken. Regardless, I was up for the challenge. First task was getting Ned a place to stay and shortly via the internet, he found a small boutique hotel in the Condado neighborhood of San Juan. Conveniently located, walking distance to the ocean front, with many restaurants and the best supermarket housing a fully-stocked wine department (otherwise difficult to find around here), the hotel was in an area that we know well, as we have friends there. Before Ned confirmed his reservation, I checked out the facilities, told him that he had made a good choice and advised him on which room best suited his needs.
By mid-November of last year Ned had his admission papers for the car show, the hotel booked, and airline tickets in hand. Then began a series of emails wherein we made detailed plans for his week on the island, starting with an article from Food&Wine.com titled, "How to Spend a Perfect Time in San Juan eating & drinking" which set the tone for much that would follow. Regarding the first day/night of the car show and my suggestion that we try to hit the beach then go to a cocktail party and dinner, Ned replied, "For sure, the cocktail party. Venue looks great especially if some of the cars featured in the show are there. The dinner is unlikely to be interesting no matter where it is held: endless speeches, awards, etc. Guaynabo's Museum of Transportation holds far more appeal for me than does surfing and other activities they highlight in their brochure."
(From NF mobile}.
I followed up with a lengthy note giving Ned details about various options:
"Wed: I pick you up and we tour San Juan area starting with Pinones, just east of the airport. A funky beach zone and home to the most authentic and delicious Puertoriccan food. We'll get lunch cooked over an open fire: pork, banana fritters, rice, black beans, and beer. Then we work our way west along the coast: Carolina, Isla Verde, Ocean Park, Condado (where you're staying) tour Old San Juan, and then back east, but a bit more south: Miramar, Santurce (the arts district) Obrero (another art district) then circle back to your hotel. That will take us the better part of the day. We can have dinner in your neighborhood and before its too late, I head home.
Thurs: Day One of show. They'll have transport for you to Guaynabo which is half way between my house and San Juan, so I can easily meet you at the show grounds. I think I should remain a free-agent. You sign on as volunteer. I'll be my reporter self, take photos, etc. (what I do best) while you get to know the people running the show (what you do best). At end of day we go to that cocktail event, then you Uber back to your hotel, and I drive home.
Friday: Another show day. Same plan as above. End of day, I drive you home, we catch dinner. If it's too late, I sleep on your couch.
Sat: From now on, it depends on what you want to do. You use same routine to get to Guaynabo, where I meet you. If you've had too much show, we leave and go exploring. Visit that Transportation museum, look around town of Guaynabo, etc. I drive you to hotel, then take myself home, if it's not too late.
Sun - Tues: I show you around San Juan and nearby areas. San Juan is rich in experiences, with plenty to see and do, plus you need to meet a few of our friends. Later, we will take a short drive south to Caguas, an interesting town which I know well. We should go mid-morning. On our return, we'll take country roads, winding and beautiful and stop here in Santa Olaya where you'll see how we live. Then back to San Juan. If I'm too wobbly to drive home, I sleep on your couch.
Wed: Before noon, we grab lunch and get to SJU airport in plenty of time for your 3:30 pm flight home.
That's it. I think the basics are strong and you'll enjoy exploring life here in Paradise, as they call it."
(Jan, via email)
Meanwhile, in keeping with the car theme, I was working with David Brickman, fellow artist living in Albany, and together we wrote a review of Japanese director Ryusuke Hamaguchi’s film "Drive My Car" based on Haruki Murakami’s short story of the same name. Brickman covered the film and I wrote about Murakami's story.
Link to the article -- https://nippertown.com/2022/02/06/let-me-drive-my-car-please
I emailed a copy of our review to Ned and got this note back from him:
On Mon, Feb 7, 2022, 11:21 AM Ned Foss wrote:
Great piece!
to which I replied:
On Mon, Feb 7, 2022 3:53 PM Jan Galligan wrote:
Thanks Ned.
I thought of you when writing that.
Early in April Ned sent a note confirming his arrival time at SJU and his plans for the visit.
I replied:
"I've got you inked in for Wed 4/20 with 4:50pm arrival. I'll be there, in the peripheral parking area. Text me when you land and call me when you have your bags. I'll meet you at Delta arrivals. Then we head into San Juan, get you settled at Placid Suites, after which we go to a nearby restaurant for dinner.
San Juan, PR and environs
Founded by the Dutch in 1614, Albany, NY is one of the oldest cities in the US. If Ned Foss and I had met back then, we would have bonded over something other than automobiles, as the first motor car, a steam powered vehicle was not invented until 1627. As it was, we met in Albany's Mansion neighborhood, named not for large elegant houses, but rather for the Governor's Mansion which sits at the top of a hill overlooking the Hudson River and the Pastures, Albany's first settlement along the Hudson.
Ned was living on Wilbur St and driving a fully restored turquoise and white 1963 Dodge Town and Country panel truck. I was living at 75 Grand St. and driving a vintage, nine window, two passenger, unrestored, bright yellow 1968 Ford Econoline van. Sharing our interest, I showed Ned photos of a red 800 cc 1961 Morris Mini Minor, as well as a 1200 cc, dual carburator, off yellow 1963 Austin Mini Cooper S that had been my daily transportation in Madison, WI prior to moving to Albany. That move in 1976 meant I had to trade the Mini Cooper for the maxi-sized Econoline in order to haul all my possessions.
Ned proceeded to enumerate a long list of vintage and classic cars he had owned prior to his move to Albany. Our bond established, I soon purchased, and in one case inherited, a series of second-hand vechicles from Ned, including two Peugeot station wagons, a 1982 504 diesel, and later a gas powered 1990 405. The diesel came with a second, backup parts car, the inheritance. A few years later, I bought from Ned what would be the first of many Volvo wagons. The subsequent Volvos were purchased from a local shop that specialized in Volvo repairs; suffice to say over those years, repairs were often and numerous. Twelve years ago, just before leaving for our current home here in Santa Olaya, PR, I sold both Volvos, a black 1995 850 wagon, and a four door dark green, 240 GL sedan which had become our daughter Lydia's primary transport and which was the last car we owned while in Albany.
Some months ago, I got an email from Ned informing me that in mid-April of this year, the Antique Automobile Club of America, Puerto Rico Region, would present a three day event called the ACAA Dual Nationals Special Winter and Special Grand Nationals meet in Guaynabo, an urban city located halfway between where we live in the central mountains, and San Juan on the northern coast. Clearly it was too difficult for Ned to ship either of his current collectables to the island for this show, but he was very enthusiastic about attending, and planned to extend his stay for a full week beyond the days of the meet. He reminded me that he had made one extended visit to the island fifty years ago, and as I knew, a few brief stop-overs on the way to Nevis where he and family have often vacationed. "I don't really know Puerto Rico all that well," he told me. "So this will be a good opportunity to get to know San Juan and the areas nearby, with you as my intrepid guide and interpreter."
Intrepid, I was not so sure about, and interpreter would be a stretch. I can manage the basics: ordering food in restaurants or buying supplies in countryside bodegas where little or no English is spoken. Regardless, I was up for the challenge. First task was getting Ned a place to stay and shortly via the internet, he found a small boutique hotel in the Condado neighborhood of San Juan. Conveniently located, walking distance to the ocean front, with many restaurants and the best supermarket housing a fully-stocked wine department (otherwise difficult to find around here), the hotel was in an area that we know well, as we have friends there. Before Ned confirmed his reservation, I checked out the facilities, told him that he had made a good choice and advised him on which room best suited his needs.
By mid-November of last year Ned had his admission papers for the car show, the hotel booked, and airline tickets in hand. Then began a series of emails wherein we made detailed plans for his week on the island, starting with an article from Food&Wine.com titled, "How to Spend a Perfect Time in San Juan eating & drinking" which set the tone for much that would follow. Regarding the first day/night of the car show and my suggestion that we try to hit the beach then go to a cocktail party and dinner, Ned replied, "For sure, the cocktail party. Venue looks great especially if some of the cars featured in the show are there. The dinner is unlikely to be interesting no matter where it is held: endless speeches, awards, etc. Guaynabo's Museum of Transportation holds far more appeal for me than does surfing and other activities they highlight in their brochure."
(From NF mobile}.
I followed up with a lengthy note giving Ned details about various options:
"Wed: I pick you up and we tour San Juan area starting with Pinones, just east of the airport. A funky beach zone and home to the most authentic and delicious Puertoriccan food. We'll get lunch cooked over an open fire: pork, banana fritters, rice, black beans, and beer. Then we work our way west along the coast: Carolina, Isla Verde, Ocean Park, Condado (where you're staying) tour Old San Juan, and then back east, but a bit more south: Miramar, Santurce (the arts district) Obrero (another art district) then circle back to your hotel. That will take us the better part of the day. We can have dinner in your neighborhood and before its too late, I head home.
Thurs: Day One of show. They'll have transport for you to Guaynabo which is half way between my house and San Juan, so I can easily meet you at the show grounds. I think I should remain a free-agent. You sign on as volunteer. I'll be my reporter self, take photos, etc. (what I do best) while you get to know the people running the show (what you do best). At end of day we go to that cocktail event, then you Uber back to your hotel, and I drive home.
Friday: Another show day. Same plan as above. End of day, I drive you home, we catch dinner. If it's too late, I sleep on your couch.
Sat: From now on, it depends on what you want to do. You use same routine to get to Guaynabo, where I meet you. If you've had too much show, we leave and go exploring. Visit that Transportation museum, look around town of Guaynabo, etc. I drive you to hotel, then take myself home, if it's not too late.
Sun - Tues: I show you around San Juan and nearby areas. San Juan is rich in experiences, with plenty to see and do, plus you need to meet a few of our friends. Later, we will take a short drive south to Caguas, an interesting town which I know well. We should go mid-morning. On our return, we'll take country roads, winding and beautiful and stop here in Santa Olaya where you'll see how we live. Then back to San Juan. If I'm too wobbly to drive home, I sleep on your couch.
Wed: Before noon, we grab lunch and get to SJU airport in plenty of time for your 3:30 pm flight home.
That's it. I think the basics are strong and you'll enjoy exploring life here in Paradise, as they call it."
(Jan, via email)
Meanwhile, in keeping with the car theme, I was working with David Brickman, fellow artist living in Albany, and together we wrote a review of Japanese director Ryusuke Hamaguchi’s film "Drive My Car" based on Haruki Murakami’s short story of the same name. Brickman covered the film and I wrote about Murakami's story.
Link to the article -- https://nippertown.com/2022/02/06/let-me-drive-my-car-please
I emailed a copy of our review to Ned and got this note back from him:
On Mon, Feb 7, 2022, 11:21 AM Ned Foss wrote:
Great piece!
to which I replied:
On Mon, Feb 7, 2022 3:53 PM Jan Galligan wrote:
Thanks Ned.
I thought of you when writing that.
Early in April Ned sent a note confirming his arrival time at SJU and his plans for the visit.
I replied:
"I've got you inked in for Wed 4/20 with 4:50pm arrival. I'll be there, in the peripheral parking area. Text me when you land and call me when you have your bags. I'll meet you at Delta arrivals. Then we head into San Juan, get you settled at Placid Suites, after which we go to a nearby restaurant for dinner.
I have a list of things we might do including: meet a few people, go a few places, hang out, drink rum -- the weather will be beautiful while you are here.
I assume you won't need a car those first couple days while the show is happening. April 23 to 26 you might want a car to do some exploring. On the 27th I take you to airport for your return flight. We can also plan on a good lunch on way to airport that day.”
(Jan, via email)
Well, you know what they say about the best laid plans. The rest as they say, is history:
(Jan, via email)
Well, you know what they say about the best laid plans. The rest as they say, is history:
Ned at Placid Suites hotel in the Condado, San Juan, PR, photo by Jan
Jan at Placid Suites hotel in the Condado, San Juan, PR, photo by Ned
(L)
Ned with motorized bicycle; (R) Custom 1955 Chevrolet with
tonneau covered wheel
Jan with silver metal racing Ferrari; and view of driver's seat, interior of the Ferrari
Ned
examining 1950 DeSoto bus originally used as public transport in
Jayuya, PR. On Oct 30, 1950 this bus was used by Blanca Canales to
ferry a group of Puertoriccan Nationalists to the center of town
where they staged an uprising against the US government, raising the
Puertoriccan Flag which was outlawed at the time, and declaring
Puerto Rico a Free Republic. In second photo Ned is shown with the
owner, an historian who lives in Jayuya and who has completely
restored the bus to its original state.
Maintenance man with his personal
transport Chevy truck. On right, another motorized bicycle.
Finding
the Delorean: On the last day of the car show, Ned discovered a
1981 Delorean which we learned from Luis Angueria current owner, had
been abandoned on a side street in San Juan for over 15 years. He
found the original owner, purchased the car, discovered that it had been
driven only 18,000 miles, then he did a full restoration. This car
was later used as the prototype “car of the future” designed by
John Delorean, in the autobiography, comedy, thriller movie Driven,
filmed in Puerto Rico in 2018.
Touring
the island: Ned in
Bayamon with bust of Ramon Emiterio Betances primary instigator of
the Grito de Lares revolution and considered to be the father of the
Puertoriccan independence movement. In Old San Juan with Pedro Albizu
Campos the head of the Puertoriccan independence movement in the
1950s. In Santurce, with a No Littering sign. At San Juan's Luis
Munoz Marin airport, on the way back to New York at the end of the
journey.
POSTSCRIPT:
After reviewing our story, Ned sent these amendments and questions (answers included here):
While living on Wilbur St. my 1963 Dodge Town and Country Panel Truck was all turquoise before it gained a rebuilt engine and white paint during the course of restoration. (noted and corrected)
What was that wonderful hotel we walked through in Old San Juan? (El Convento)
What was the name of that area where we walked around newly-restored buildings and listened to loud music in the Park? (Ocean Park east)
The train and the station with Antonio Muntadas' pictures of Jack Delano's photographs was a great way to experience a way out of the city and into the suburbs without being on a commuter highway. (San Juan to Bayamon elevated commuter train. This article references Muntadas' installation at Roosevelt station -- http://janguarte.posthaven.com/fair-use-or-fair-game-art-in-the-internet-age )
What was the name of that lovely bakery where we had our final breakfast? (Kasalta, in Ocean Park)
And that cool place on the mountaintop where we went with Lillian, Peter and Betty? (Hacienda Calichi in Naranjito)
And that outstanding restaurant in town? (La Princesa on paseo La Princesa in Old San Juan)
While at the Rhinebeck car show, I found a DeSoto collector and learned that the DeSoto we fell in love with is fully Dodge, but was sold in Latin America and other parts of the world branded as De Soto. That type of thing happened often with Mopars: Low-end Chryslers were sold in Norway branded as Plymouths, etc.
(From NF mobile}.
Editor's note: This visit to the Puerto Rico car show was not the only automotive adventure shared by Foss and Galligan. In July of 2002 the pair made a tightly scheduled, carefully navigated cross country trip from Albany, NY to Kenosha, WI (Jan's hometown) in a 1951 Nash Rambler Country Club, from Ned's car collection at that time, in order to attend the 100th Anniversary celebration of the introduction of the first Rambler automobile by the former Nash Motors Corporation there in Kenosha.
You can read that full story here ... BEEP BEEP YOUR ASS.