FROM THE ARCHIVES: ARTISTAS EN PERFIL: Obras y insurrección

Obras y insurrección

by Jan Galligan & Lillian Mulero
May 24, 2015

Outside the Galeria Oller: PUERTA CERRADA! VOLVER OTRA

“Are we locked out, or is the art locked in?” I ask Lillian. “It depends which side of the glass you are standing on. For now, we are not getting inside,” she tells me. We came to Galeria Francisco Oller, on the UPR Rio Piedras campus, to see Crescendo, an art installation by Elizam Escobar. With the doors locked the only thing we can see is a pile of brochures inside the glass door, and a blurry view of some of the images on the walls. The far end of the gallery is dominated by two larger than life size photographs. The first shows Escobar when he was a much younger man, standing next to a small boy. The other photo shows an older Escobar standing next to a man and an even older woman. 

Not wanting our trip to be wasted effort, we visited Liberia Tertulia, where we purchased the new book by Nelson A. Denis, War Against All Puerto Ricans: Revolution and Terror in America's Colony. We learned that Denis would speak about his book at UPR the following day, and made plans to attend that discussion. 

"The United States has a long and complex relationship with Puerto Rico that changes dramatically depending on who is telling the tale. Is America a friendly benefactor who brought economic development to an agricultural island? Or is the U.S. an oppressive ruler who capitalized on the island's fertile and inexpensive land, and cheap labor, to advance U.S. economic interests at the expense of Puerto Ricans, many of whom wanted independence after the oppressive rule of Spain." This quote comes from Betsy Kaplan of WNPR news radio in Hartford, CT. She recently interviewed Denis about the book and his investigations into the life of Pedro Albizu Campos, leader of the Nationalist Party of Puerto Rico, who devoted his entire life to seeking independence. 

During the subsequent discussion by Denis we learned that he considers his book a work in progress, telling one part of a complex and evolving story that exposes a suppressed, often hidden history of the island's efforts to resist domination, and ongoing U.S. repression. He said the next step for his book is translation into Spanish. The discussion became heated when a few students and one historian challenged Denis on some specific facts. He was generous in his response, telling them that he is author of a narrative and worked to be as accurate as possible, while reminding them that facts can always be corrected. “What is important,” he says, “is the message to our youth, which they must internalize. There are many opinions, but we should learn to speak as one voice if we are to be heard.”

Nelson A. Denis (third from right) during UPR presentation

Denis indicated the core of this book is a human appeal to an incredible story, not unlike the story told by Dee Brown in his 1970 book, Bury My Heart at Wounded Knee, an account of injustice and the betrayal of native American Indians by the U.S. government. Denis said Brown's book represents a paradigm shift in people's perception of the plight of the American Indian and hoped that his own book might provide the impetus for a similar shift in thinking – for Puerto Ricans about themselves and popular opinion about the island and its people.

After the discussion, we returned to the Oller gallery to view the art installation by Elizam Escobar and this time we were able to make a close and careful observation. Unlike other exhibitions of Escobar's work that we have seen, this presents a detailed auto-biographical record of the lenghty time he was in prison in the U.S., incarcerated as member of the Movimiento Clandestino Puertorriqueno, who were fighting for independence.

The most striking and absorbing work in this installation is a series of 19 photographs, one for each of his years in U.S. federal prison, that show Escobar with his son in the visiting rooms of the various prisions where he was being held. In two instances his son was not able to visit, so Escobar has collaged two individual photos together. These may the most affective of all. 

We were joined on our tour by Nelson Denis and he made a pointed and astute observation of this group of photographs. “Look at Escobar's eyes,” he instructed us, “Notice how world-weary he appears. Compare that to the life in the eyes of his son.” As you look at these photos and their history of time's passage, you watch the son grow from a boy to a man. At the end, in 1999, he is nearly the same age as Escobar at the beginning in of his incarceration in 1981. As Denis pointed out, a certain weariness seems to have crept into the son's eyes as well, as his knowledge of the world and his awareness of his place in it grows along with him.

Crescendo represents a gradual but steady increase in volume or intensity, usually in sound and often culminating in an especially loud noise or crash. Escobar considers his installation a visible record of the passage of time, and it is easy to imagine those 19 years building in intensity. 

According to the account by Denis in his book War Against All Puerto Ricans, the abuse of the island of Puerto Rico started early, in 1493 under Spanish rule, followed in 1898 by the U.S. government's annexation of the island after the Spanish-American war. The leader of the Nationalist Party and his supporters felt that crescendo which climaxed in the last days of October, 1950 when they led an armed insurrection against the U.S. government. As Denis says, this story is still being written.

The Jayuya Revolt or El Grito de Jayuya, was a Nationalist insurrection that took place on October 30, 1950

Elizam Escobar experienced a crescendo which may have started even before his arrest in 1981, but continued its increase in intensity until he was released from prison and he returned to the island. One can read the culmination in his eyes, the eyes of his son, and the eyes of his mother in the large photograph that dominates the wall at the far end of the gallery, showing them together September 10, 1999, the day of his release.

(left) FBI document from book by Nelson A. Denis (right) Albizu Campos, painting by Elizam Escobar

Jan Galligan & Lillian Mulero, UPR art gallery, May 12, 2015


EL DIARIO DE VIAJE DEL RON y COMIDA: The quest for a vintage Delorean

by Jan Galligan & Ned Foss
April 20 - 27, 2022
San Juan, PR and environs

Founded by the Dutch in 1614, Albany, NY is one of the oldest cities in the US. If Ned Foss and I had met back then, we would have bonded over something other than automobiles, as the first motor car, a steam powered vehicle was not invented until 1627. As it was, we met in Albany's Mansion neighborhood, named not for large elegant houses, but rather for the Governor's Mansion which sits at the top of a hill overlooking the Hudson River and the Pastures, Albany's first settlement along the Hudson.

Ned was living on Wilbur St and driving a fully restored turquoise and white 1963 Dodge Town and Country panel truck. I was living at 75 Grand St. and driving a vintage, nine window, two passenger, unrestored, bright yellow 1968 Ford Econoline van. Sharing our interest, I showed Ned photos of a red 800 cc 1961 Morris Mini Minor, as well as a 1200 cc, dual carburator, off yellow 1963 Austin Mini Cooper S that had been my daily transportation in Madison, WI prior to moving to Albany. That move in 1976 meant I had to trade the Mini Cooper for the maxi-sized Econoline in order to haul all my possessions.

Ned proceeded to enumerate a long list of vintage and classic cars he had owned prior to his move to Albany. Our bond established, I soon purchased, and in one case inherited, a series of second-hand vechicles from Ned, including two Peugeot station wagons, a 1982 504 diesel, and later a gas powered 1990 405. The diesel came with a second, backup parts car, the inheritance. A few years later, I bought from Ned what would be the first of many Volvo wagons. The subsequent Volvos were purchased from a local shop that specialized in Volvo repairs; suffice to say over those years, repairs were often and numerous. Twelve years ago, just before leaving for our current home here in Santa Olaya, PR, I sold both Volvos, a black 1995 850 wagon, and a four door dark green, 240 GL sedan which had become our daughter Lydia's primary transport and which was the last car we owned while in Albany.

Some months ago, I got an email from Ned informing me that in mid-April of this year, the Antique Automobile Club of America, Puerto Rico Region, would present a three day event called the ACAA Dual Nationals Special Winter and Special Grand Nationals meet in Guaynabo, an urban city located halfway between where we live in the central mountains, and San Juan on the northern coast. Clearly it was too difficult for Ned to ship either of his current collectables to the island for this show, but he was very enthusiastic about attending, and planned to extend his stay for a full week beyond the days of the meet. He reminded me that he had made one extended visit to the island fifty years ago, and as I knew, a few brief stop-overs on the way to Nevis where he and family have often vacationed. "I don't really know Puerto Rico all that well," he told me. "So this will be a good opportunity to get to know San Juan and the areas nearby, with you as my intrepid guide and interpreter."

Intrepid, I was not so sure about, and interpreter would be a stretch. I can manage the basics: ordering food in restaurants or buying supplies in countryside bodegas where little or no English is spoken. Regardless, I was up for the challenge. First task was getting Ned a place to stay and shortly via the internet, he found a small boutique hotel in the Condado neighborhood of San Juan. Conveniently located, walking distance to the ocean front, with many restaurants and the best supermarket housing a fully-stocked wine department (otherwise difficult to find around here), the hotel was in an area that we know well, as we have friends there. Before Ned confirmed his reservation, I checked out the facilities, told him that he had made a good choice and advised him on which room best suited his needs.

By mid-November of last year Ned had his admission papers for the car show, the hotel booked, and airline tickets in hand. Then began a series of emails wherein we made detailed plans for his week on the island, starting with an article from Food&Wine.com titled, "How to Spend a Perfect Time in San Juan eating & drinking" which set the tone for much that would follow. Regarding the first day/night of the car show and my suggestion that we try to hit the beach then go to a cocktail party and dinner, Ned replied, "For sure, the cocktail party. Venue looks great especially if some of the cars featured in the show are there. The dinner is unlikely to be interesting no matter where it is held: endless speeches, awards, etc. Guaynabo's Museum of Transportation holds far more appeal for me than does surfing and other activities they highlight in their brochure."  
(From NF mobile}. 

I followed up with a lengthy note giving Ned details about various options:

"Wed: I pick you up and we tour San Juan area starting with Pinones, just east of the airport. A funky beach zone and home to the most authentic and delicious Puertoriccan food. We'll get lunch cooked over an open fire: pork, banana fritters, rice, black beans, and beer. Then we work our way west along the coast: Carolina, Isla Verde, Ocean Park, Condado (where you're staying) tour Old San Juan, and then back east, but a bit more south: Miramar, Santurce (the arts district) Obrero (another art district) then circle back to your hotel. That will take us the better part of the day. We can have dinner in your neighborhood and before its too late, I head home.

Thurs: Day One of show. They'll have transport for you to Guaynabo which is half way between my house and San Juan, so I can easily meet you at the show grounds. I think I should remain a free-agent. You sign on as volunteer. I'll be my reporter self, take photos, etc. (what I do best) while you get to know the people running the show (what you do best). At end of day we go to that cocktail event, then you Uber back to your hotel, and I drive home.

Friday: Another show day. Same plan as above. End of day, I drive you home, we catch dinner. If it's too late, I sleep on your couch.
 
Sat: From now on, it depends on what you want to do. You use same routine to get to Guaynabo, where I meet you. If you've had too much show, we leave and go exploring. Visit that Transportation museum, look around town of Guaynabo, etc. I drive you to hotel, then take myself home, if it's not too late.

Sun - Tues: I show you around San Juan and nearby areas. San Juan is rich in experiences, with plenty to see and do, plus you need to meet a few of our friends. Later, we will take a short drive south to Caguas, an interesting town which I know well. We should go mid-morning. On our return, we'll take country roads, winding and beautiful and stop here in Santa Olaya where you'll see how we live. Then back to San Juan. If I'm too wobbly to drive home, I sleep on your couch.
 
Wed: Before noon, we grab lunch and get to SJU airport in plenty of time for your 3:30 pm flight home.

That's it. I think the basics are strong and you'll enjoy exploring life here in Paradise, as they call it."
(Jan, via email)

Meanwhile, in keeping with the car theme, I was working with David Brickman, fellow artist living in Albany, and together we wrote a review of Japanese director Ryusuke Hamaguchi’s film "Drive My Car" based on Haruki Murakami’s short story of the same name. Brickman covered the film and I wrote about Murakami's story.

I emailed a copy of our review to Ned and got this note back from him:

On Mon, Feb 7, 2022, 11:21 AM Ned Foss wrote:
Great piece!

to which I replied:

On Mon, Feb 7, 2022 3:53 PM Jan Galligan wrote:
Thanks Ned.
I thought of you when writing that.

Early in April Ned sent a note confirming his arrival time at SJU and his plans for the visit.
 
I replied:

"I've got you inked in for Wed 4/20 with 4:50pm arrival. I'll be there, in the peripheral parking area. Text me when you land and call me when you have your bags. I'll meet you at Delta arrivals. Then we head into San Juan, get you settled at Placid Suites, after which we go to a nearby restaurant for dinner.  

I have a list of things we might do including: meet a few people, go a few places, hang out, drink rum -- the weather will be beautiful while you are here.

I assume you won't need a car those first couple days while the show is happening. April 23 to 26 you might want a car to do some exploring. On the 27th I take you to airport for your return flight. We can also plan on a good lunch on way to airport that day.”
(Jan, via email)
 
Well, you know what they say about the best laid plans. The rest as they say, is history:

Ned at Placid Suites hotel in the Condado, San Juan, PR, photo by Jan

Jan at Placid Suites hotel in the Condado, San Juan, PR, photo by Ned

(L) Ned with motorized bicycle; (R) Custom 1955 Chevrolet with tonneau covered wheel

Jan with silver metal racing Ferrari; and view of driver's seat, interior of the Ferrari

Ned examining 1950 DeSoto bus originally used as public transport in Jayuya, PR. On Oct 30, 1950 this bus was used by Blanca Canales to ferry a group of Puertoriccan Nationalists to the center of town where they staged an uprising against the US government, raising the Puertoriccan Flag which was outlawed at the time, and declaring Puerto Rico a Free Republic. In second photo Ned is shown with the owner, an historian who lives in Jayuya and who has completely restored the bus to its original state.

Maintenance man with his personal transport Chevy truck. On right, another motorized bicycle.

Finding the Delorean: On the last day of the car show, Ned discovered a 1981 Delorean which we learned from Luis Angueria current owner, had been abandoned on a side street in San Juan for over 15 years. He found the original owner, purchased the car, discovered that it had been driven only 18,000 miles, then he did a full restoration. This car was later used as the prototype “car of the future” designed by John Delorean, in the autobiography, comedy, thriller movie Driven, filmed in Puerto Rico in 2018.

Touring the island: Ned in Bayamon with bust of Ramon Emiterio Betances primary instigator of the Grito de Lares revolution and considered to be the father of the Puertoriccan independence movement. In Old San Juan with Pedro Albizu Campos the head of the Puertoriccan independence movement in the 1950s. In Santurce, with a No Littering sign. At San Juan's Luis Munoz Marin airport, on the way back to New York at the end of the journey.

POSTSCRIPT:

After reviewing our story, Ned sent these amendments and questions (answers included here):

While living on Wilbur St. my 1963 Dodge Town and Country Panel Truck was all turquoise before it gained a rebuilt engine and white paint during the course of restoration. (noted and corrected)

What was that wonderful hotel we walked through in Old San Juan? (El Convento)

What was the name of that area where we walked around newly-restored buildings and listened to loud music in the Park? (Ocean Park east)

The train and the station with Antonio Muntadas' pictures of Jack Delano's photographs was a great way to experience a  way out of the city and into the suburbs without being on a commuter highway. (San Juan to Bayamon elevated commuter train. This article references Muntadas' installation at Roosevelt station -- http://janguarte.posthaven.com/fair-use-or-fair-game-art-in-the-internet-age )

What was the name of that lovely bakery where we had our final breakfast? (Kasalta, in Ocean Park)

And that cool place on the mountaintop where we went with Lillian, Peter and Betty? (Hacienda Calichi in Naranjito)

And that outstanding restaurant in town? (La Princesa on paseo La Princesa in Old San Juan)

While at the Rhinebeck car show, I found a DeSoto collector and learned that the DeSoto we fell in love with is fully Dodge, but was sold in Latin America and other parts of the world branded as De Soto.  That type of thing happened often with Mopars: Low-end Chryslers were sold in Norway branded as Plymouths, etc.

    Note: the motorized bicycles are Whizzers --  http://www.whizzermotorbike.com/

     (From NF mobile}.

Editor's note: This visit to the Puerto Rico car show was not the only automotive adventure shared by Foss and Galligan. In July of 2002 the pair made a tightly scheduled, carefully navigated cross country trip from Albany, NY to Kenosha, WI (Jan's hometown) in a 1951 Nash Rambler Country Club, from Ned's car collection at that time, in order to attend the 100th Anniversary celebration of the introduction of the first Rambler automobile by the former Nash Motors Corporation there in Kenosha.

You can read that full story here ... BEEP BEEP YOUR ASS.


The Lichtenstein conjunction

Last night @ 11:11 pm while watching Burning (Hangul: 버닝; RR: Beoning) the 2018 South Korean psychological drama mystery film directed, produced and co-written by Lee Chang-dong, I was struck by a scene with a gigantic blowup of Roy Lichtenstein's art on the wall of the restaurant (screenshot below) ...


This morning @ 5:55 am I received this email from ArtNet auctions (screenshot below) ...

Post-Maria post

photo: Jan Galligan (left) and Lillian Mulero (right) at Ocean Park Beach, San Juan, PR, 6/8/18


Nine months post hurricane Maria, sixth months after our return following a much needed exile to the mainland, we find signs of the quasi-idyll that characterized our life on the island pre-storm. Many scars and disruptions abound, some parts of the island suffered much worse than our sheltered valley. Lots of work remains and most of us are now preparing for this year's impending hurricane season. Still, it's nice -- and it's helpful -- to get out on an especially fine day.   

Homenaje a Maria

6:18 AM Thursday, September 21, 2017, Santa Olaya, Bayamon, PR, photo by Jan Galligan

The morning after hurricane Maria had passed over the island and our house in Santa Olaya, a small barrio located in the countryside south of Bayamon, we opened the door for the first time thinking to walk around the property and inspect the damage. We were met with this spectacular view, and we marveled at how that cloud, backlit by the rising sun -- looked exactly like the island of Puerto Rico. Was this a harbinger, or an omen? Only time could tell...



posted by Jan Galligan & Lillian Mulero
temporarily in New Orleans, LA
Sunday, November 26, 2017



TODAY'S JOURNEY TO THE POST OFFICE

DATELINE: NEW ORLEANS, LA

Ready to mail a package I used Google Maps to "find the post office closest to me" and was given the address for a facility about 1.5 miles from where we are staying. Around 11AM I set off on foot from the house where we are staying, located across from the New Orleans Race Track for that location. It was a long trek, north and west but finally I arrived, only to find it surrounded on all sides by a large fence. It was a huge place, and after walking the perimeter finally at the far corner I found an entrance, only to learn that it was a distribution center, not a regular post office. "Where's the nearest post office," I asked. "North and east of here," I was told. So I set out on foot again to the new location, another mile away.

Along the way I passed Dillard University, a predominately black college founded in the 1930s. I had been told that I would find the post office in a small shopping mall near Elysian Fields, which derives its name from a very large cemetery, above ground like all cemeteries in New Orleans. The original Elysian Fields were in Greece and were the final resting place of "the souls of the heroic and virtuous." I circumnavigated the cemetery, trying to find the post office, stopping at one building in a complex of new multistory buildings. I asked the grounds keeper if they could direct me to the post office. "No habla English," they said. Replying in Spanish, It told them what I was trying to do. "Detras esta edificio," they told me. I headed for the back of the buildings, which turned out to be a gigantic mausoleum complex. Eight buildings, multistoried, that looked like an apartment complex. Compartments for the souls of the heroic and virtuous, I decided. I circumnavigated the complex, and found the shopping mall, but not the post office.

I asked a young guy for help. "I can google it," he told me, taking out his phone. "Never mind", I replied. "I haven't had much luck with google's map today." I plugged on, and finally tucked in a corner behind an auto parts store and Mike's Hardware, I found it. Waiting on line, I decided to photograph a warning sign on the wall. NO DOGS ALLOWED, EXCEPT SEEING-EYE DOGS. I thought it would make a good entry for the Mikey-Sez blog. "NO PHOTOGRAPHS IN THE POSTOFFICE!!!" shouted the woman on duty by the front door. "It's only a sign," I told her. "NO EXCEPTIONS," she directed me. The rest of my transaction at the post office was without incident and then I took the bus back towards where I started. Except, I got the wrong bus -- headed in the right direction but travelling the wrong street. I asked the driver if it went close to the Race Track. "I'll let you know when we get there," he said. I pulled down a route map for the bus and followed along. When we were blocks south of my destination I asked the driver about the Race Track. "GET OFF HERE," he told me. "TAKE THAT BUS ACROSS THE STREET." I did as told, only to watch the other bus pull away. I checked my bus map and decided to hoof it, Now I was near City Park and the New Orleans Museum of Art. I knew the area, west and north of my destination, about a mile away. 6 min. by car, says Google Maps. 45 minutes on foot, I discovered.

Next time, I'll try Uber.

COVFEFE

SMART CAR PARKED NEAR TULANE UNIVERSITY, NEW ORLEANS, Oct 19, 2017, photo by Jan Galligan


THE NEW YORK TIMES, By Matt Flegenheimer 
MAY 31, 2017

WASHINGTON — And on the 132nd day, just after midnight, President Trump had at last delivered the nation to something approaching unity — in bewilderment, if nothing else.

The state of our union was … covfefe.

The trouble began, as it so often does, on Twitter, in the early minutes of Wednesday morning. Mr. Trump had something to say. Kind of.

“Despite the constant negative press covfefe,” the Twitter post began, at 12:06 a.m., from @realDonaldTrump, the irrepressible internal monologue of his presidency.

And that was that.

ECLIPSE DIARY -- AUGUST 21, 2017

DATELINE: PUERTO RICO


Prepared for the eclipse with: Clestron 2X power Sun and Eclipse Observing Kit, notepad and pen, Barrilito.


2:21PM -- Santa Olaya, PR
Scheduled times for onset of eclipse, eclipse maximum, and final moments of eclipse
2:22PM -- Santa Olaya, PR
Viewing the onset with Celestron 2X viewer

2:35PM -- Santa Olaya, PR
Employing homemade reflection viewer -- USPS cardboard mailer, tape, pinhole, second white cardboard

2:55pm -- Santa Olaya,PR
Faced with scattered clouds, decide to drive north to Punta Salinas on the ocean front.
As we say on the island, "The coast is almost always clear."
 
3:31PM -- arrive Punta Salinas, Campomar
Set up eclipse viewing station outside Restaurante Campomar, order additional Barrilito

3:34PM -- Punta Salinas, Campomar
The moment of maximum coverage of moon over the sun.
"Watch out for cars passing too closely to viewing station ..."
(Note: t-shirt says: "BUMMER")


3:36PM -- Punta Salinas, Campomar
Last moment of maximum coverage
(Note: t-shirt says: "HUSTLE")

4:38PM --  Balenario Punta Salinas
Enjoying last minutes of eclipse, then plenty of time for a swim until sunset